Children of Family Businesses

We are surrounded by Family Busineses of all types in our daily lives.

It is surprising when you really think about Family Businesses. They are most often more than those “Mom-and-pop” shops. They are found everywhere throughout history to present day. In your neighborhood, small town or at the national and global scale. Perhaps associated with a product you use.

I thought this could be an apt topic and an opportunity to take a look back, given there is such rich history of family businesses, particularly immigrat family businesses. And in particular, Chinese Restaurants. Their stories translate to current times.

I, myself, am a byproduct of a wannabe family business story that had a succession plan, but did not have a successor or at least a successor buy-in. But was it a lost effort with no result? More on this in a bit.

I love music. So, growing up, I grew up with the Jackson and Osmond Families. Well, also the Bee Gees.

The Jackson Family (l), The Osmond Family (r) 

Of course, in our highly capitalist world, we are surrounded by those corporate consumer product familes that we often don’t think of as family businesses, or at least the mom-and-pop defintion.

In my own hometown of St. Louis we had a pretty famous immigrant family business that lasted for generations, until it was eventually sold in 2008 and went global.

Adolphous Busch, 1890.

And with this favorite topic, we are ever presented with those “ficticious?” Hollywood scipted, family businesses stories of sibling power struggles, greed, mirth, mystery, back stabbing and mayhem. Are these really fictious stories?

Thoughout history, this Family Business topic seems endlessly full of examples, good and bad. But since my website is mostly about my discoveries of the Chinese-American histories that have influenced me, one common vocation that has survived through time has been that of the Family Restaurants and the stories of the “Restaurant Child.” It resonates with me and their stories of hard work and perseverence provide life lessons to me to apply to current times.

MY PERSONAL SIDENOTE: While not a restaurant, my own Family Business dilema story was captured in my Tao Family Journey article for the OCA National Image Magazine, (this can be viewed in the Publications Section of this website). This story was about me (and my 2 brothers) not following the hopes and desires of my father to join the successful Consulting Engineering business, William Tao & Associates, he started with my mom in the early 1950s, as 1st generation immigrants. None of my older brothers had an interest and me being the last hope, I instead would choose to purse a related profession, Architecture, and ultimately found my own firm with my wife, TAO + LEE Associates. A Family Business.

My immigrant parents had worked tireless to provide for their sons to have a future. While this script of Succession did not go as planned, unlike the Hollywood version, it did not matter. Looking back, did we betray them? Disrespect them? No, the reality is we took with us lessons from their journeys. Their journey was a common immigrant story, which was about having hiope and creating opportunity for the childen. They were proud that their sons were given an opportunity. They respected that we had choices. Not often the case for most immigrants.

The Chinese Family Restaurant

Finally, this brings me to the Chinese family restaurant business, where I see so many life lessons and inspirations. We learn so much about Chinese American history and American history through the lens stories of those early immigrants who left their countries and came to the U.S looking for opportunity. The restaurant business was often their gateway to making a living.

Before our journey brings us to the U.S, here is a recent discovery on a trip of mine of a Chinese immigrant family. Loncheria Polo Norte, in Cartagena, Colombia is a food shop in operation since the 1930s. The story we were told is that nearly a century ago a Chinese immigrant from Taishan or Toisan (Guangdong province) was told of opportunity in South America. Once settled, while he thought of continuing to the U.S at some point, he became very comfortable in Cartegena, eventually bringing over his family. They never left, of course.

Photo: Me with Munol Von, 3rd Generation, born in Cartegna. Middle, their “Chop Suey” influenced empanada.

To this day, the restaurant has been the gateway for generations of immigrants. Most immigrants could cook versus having a particular skill that was translatable to the U.S labor market of the 1800s. Of course, we know the history of Chinese immigrant (hard) labor coming initially to support the gold rush and then the building of the railroads. But it is these very labor jobs that would eventually prevent the Chinese of working here with the passing of the Chinese Exclusion Act. But, a restaurant was a “business” and owning one allowed the Chinese to remain, legally

Throughout post railroad era Chinese immigrant history, we discover the stories of hard working restaurant owners and their families popping up around the country. Working hard to make a living and to provide for their children. The children often working in supporting roles. And with these stories, the creation of Chop Suey to the American pallate. Note: It is generally recognized that Chop Suey did not originate in the U.S, but was an adapation from a Guandong, China dish. Neverthess, it was the Chinese restaurant owners staple offering to the U.S customer.

Aside from that unkind learning period of this “odd” food from these “peculiar” people, this food offering would eventually be embraced and Americanized like so many cultural cuisines. Chop Suey became so popular that in the 1930s it would be commercialized in a big way and by the 1950s it would be packaged to ensure it was available to eat while watching TV.

1934 La Choy Ad (St. Louis Globe Democrat). 1957 Chun King Ad (Evening Star)

Side Note: In addition to the Chop Suey acceptence into mainstream U.S cuisine, the Chinese restaurant “entrepreneur” would continue to adapt the Chinese cuisine and bring us such dishes as General Tso’s Chicken, Beef and broccoli, the St. Paul Sandwich and Fortune cookies, to name a few. The legend and roots of the St. Paul Sandwich, basically an Egg Foo Young sandwich and a real St. Louis staple, is much debated. Time for a later story

Lucky Inn

This brings us to a restaurant fixture in St. Louis, Lucky Inn. Lucky Inn was the longest continually operating Chop Suey restaurant till this year, when an unlucky fate occurred.

The story of Lucky Inn is that familiar story. A Chinese immigrant comes to the country in the early 1900s looking for opportunity and ultimately finds a location to reside and opens up a restaurant, Lucky Inn in 1932. And like all (urban) businesses the restaurant would have to last the challenges of its times, from the Great Depression, to urban decay and white flight.

Another common Chinese historical fact is that Lucky Inn’s owner, Hing Yee, would have to go back to China to find a wife due to the Chinese Exclusion effects; Chinese women had been banned as early as 1875 through the Page Act. He would father a child, Robert Yee, and return to St. Louis. And if life was not challenging enough, he would eventually take ill in the late 1950s. So, Robert, the only child and now in college, would have to drop out to help the family. He had no choice. Read more about this beloved restaurant history in the following articles.

Robert “Lucky” Yee would continue working in the restaurant till this year with his wife. And a similar storyline to family businesses, his children had opted for other vocational opportunities, though through the encouragement of the father. Robert Yee did not want his children to work the unforgiving restaurant life. So, Robert and his wife stood together, persevered, driving into the City everyday from their (now) suburban home, helping Lucky Inn reach the 92 year milestone.

Of his 65 years of operating the restaurant, you would think that a lot can change in 7 decades. But Robert noted, not the menu. He also noted that while the neighborhood demographics would change, one dish would always be the constant favorite menu item. Fried Rice! The ole reliable Fried Rice stood the test of time, perhaps surpassing the original, Chop Suey.

Another Lucky Inn constant over those decades, the STLMPD (St. Louis Metropolitan Police Department) would be a loyal customer.

Robert’s St. Louis Police Department Souvenir

Sadly a strong storm hit St. Louis the week of November 4, 2024, causing the rear of the building to collapse. The restaurant occupied the whole ground floor, with the kitchen at the rear.

Photos: The Accidental Historian, 11/2024

Perhaps this was a sign that it was finally time for Lucky Inn. After all, Robert is now 85 years old. He deserves time off. While it should never be our wish to see such businesses close through a decision out of their control, it is reality of time. So when this happens, we must learn and cherish the history and the stories.

So, here is photo Tribute of Lucky Inn from a collection of photos. If you know of other older photos or stories, please let me know.

Photos: The Accidental Historian, 11/2024

Photo: The Accidental Historian, 11/2024

Photos: The Accidental Historian, 11/2024

Photo: The Accidental Historian, 11/2024

Photos: The St. Louis American, 2022. The St. Louis Business Journal, 2019.

Photos: The St. Louis Business Journal, 2019. 

Photo of Robert and Bootsie Collins. MIssouri Historical Society, 2024.

Photo: “Greatest Chinese Restaurant West of the Mississippi,” Missouri Court of Appeals. MIssouri Historical Society, 2024.

Photos: Menu boards and an abacus. The Missouri Historical Society, 2024

Photos: The St. Louis Business Journal, 2019. 

Photo: The last interview inside the restaurant. The Missouri Historical Society, 2024

December 19, 2024. Witnessing the beginning of the demolition of the building with Wing and Robert (Lucky) Yee. There was no saddness, but fond memories.

A customer had come to witness. As the building came down, he would say, “Lucky, I just need one more di

December 21, 2024. Last moments of Lucky Inn’s public face.

Salvaged Bricks. While Lucky Inn’s physical presence will be lost at this site, 3018 Martin Luther King Dr, its spirit will live on in these bricks and memories.

The Lucky Inn restuarant story is only one example of those Chinese Immigrants who worked so hard, often under adverse conditions, to make a living, typically with the objective of making a better life for the children.

  • We discover how these restaurants might be the only business that remains in a decaying urban environment, where everyone else has fled.

  • We discover that by remaining, they become a part of the community. More than just a restaurant.

  • We discover how these restaurants transend the changes in racial demographics.

  • We discover the challenges of devotion to family and the tensions, when the children are lured away for other opportunities.

  • We discover the stories of children working (and living) in the restaurant and that it was not always a bad thing.

  • And of course we have learned that a “business” is one of the only ways that a “Chinaman” was allowed to remain in the U.S. during the enforcement of the 1882 Chinese Exclusion Act.

My tip of the hat to these family businesses, as I have learned so much about the meaning and value of hard work and perseverence and that my personal work circumstances is not so tough in comparison.

Left. Kowloon Chop Suey, Jennings, MO (1985-2011), photo by Michael Dayawon. Right. On On Chop Suey, Ferguson, MO (1980-sold 2009), later a victim of the Ferguson riots.

Siblings, Annie Leong and Wing Leong. Annie would remain with the Asia Cafe family business. Wing Leong would pursue college education, leading to a successful professionial career. Left, Annie Leong (St. Louis Post Dispatch, 1965). Right, Wing Leong in training (courtesy of the Leong Family).

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THE LIFE BALANCE EQUATION